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"The
Savings Experts"
Serving all of Nashville with over 30 years' experience
Questions about
heating and
air conditioning?
We've got easy-to-understand answers!
We
believe the best customer is a well-informed customer.
It helps you sleep better at
night - and that helps us sleep better!
That's why you'll find our website offers more
solid, useful information than all the other
heating-air conditioning websites in Nashville - combined.
How to
tell if you've got ductwork problems
The
ABC's of Heating & Air Conditioning
What are
the different types of heating systems?
Big question. There are many different systems in place today to heat a
home and any attempt to cover each system will result in a book on the
subject.
To simplify things we will look at heating systems as a
combination of two separate components, the distribution method and fuel.
The different combinations of fuel and distribution systems make for the
wide variety of systems on the market.
We have broken this question down into several
sections, this way you can
look at the area you want.
Distribution
A quick review of the various distribution systems for central heating.
Fuel
A quick review of the various fuel options for central heating.
Heating systems come in all sizes, types and fuels. In residential
systems there are basically two different distribution systems, forced air
(ductwork) and radiation (baseboards). These systems can be fueled by one
or more of oil, electricity, natural gas, propane, solar or wood.
 For
an illustration of a common
furnace layout,
CLICK HERE or
on the picture at the left.
To see a radiant
heating layout, CLICK
HERE or on the photo at the right.
For most purposes you can categorize home heating systems into two
broad categories, furnaces and boilers.
Generally speaking furnaces heat
air and use a system of fans and ductwork to move that air around the
house.
Boilers heat water and use a circulator pump and piping to move the
water through radiators, thus heating the home.
Furnaces
For
an illustration of a common furnace layout, CLICK
HERE or on the picture at the left.
Furnaces come in all shapes, sizes, efficiencies and fuels. The most
common furnace in urban areas is a forced air, natural gas unit.
In rural
areas, or areas that do not have access to natural gas pipelines, furnaces
often burn oil, propane or electricity to produce heat.
Regardless of the
fuel all residential furnaces work on the same principle. A fuel is burnt
in a heat exchanger to produce heat. Air is then passed over the heat
exchanger where it picks up heat, the air is then delivered to the house
through a ductwork system.
Furnaces are often classified according to efficiencies. You'll often
hear furnaces being referred to as Standard, Mid and High Efficient
units. The efficiency is determined by the furnace's AFUE .
A Standard
furnace is one whose AFUE is below 70%, a Mid Efficient furnace is one
whose AFUE is between 71% and 82% and a High efficient furnace is one
whose AFUE is above 90%.
If you are considering the purchase of a new
furnace, do not go by the label the manufacturer has assigned, compare
AFUE ratings.
When a furnace is installed in a basement it is considered an
"Upflow"
furnace, meaning the cooler air from the home enters the base of the
furnace, and exits out the top of the furnace.
The furnace is connected to
a series metal boxes and pipes, which is the ductwork. The very fist metal
box on the top of the furnace is called the PLENUM. If you have air
conditioning the evaporator coil is installed in this plenum.
If a furnace is installed on the main floor of a home and the heat
comes from floor registers, it is a downflow furnace. In a downflow
furnace the cool air from your home enters the furnace at the top and the
warmed air exits at the bottom.
Is
there anything special I need to do to get my heating system ready for
winter?
Most heating systems are quite reliable and will provide you with
quick, comfortable heat when you need it, providing you take good care of
the system.
We recommend that you check out your furnace BEFORE the first cold
night hits. If you have air conditioning you should shut it down and cover
it for the winter.
(For more information on this see Getting Your Air
Conditioner Ready For Winter under the Cooling FAQ section.)
Follow these easy steps:
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Clean or change your furnace filter monthly -
like when you get your gas or electric bill.
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If your furnace or boiler has a pilot light, make sure it is on.
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Some homes are equipped with a "FRESH AIR INTAKE" that brings in
fresh air from the outside for combustion. If your home has one, make
sure it is not blocked and clean the outside lint trap.
-
Set your furnace to the "heat" position and turn up the thermostat.
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Allow your furnace to run through a couple of cycles to make sure it
is working properly.
-
Do a quick visual inspection of the furnace area to make sure there
are no items that could interfere with air flow or combustion.
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Call Energy Masters at
352-3090 to arrange for a professional cleaning
and inspection.
Is
regular maintenance really necessary?
Absolutely! Your heating/air conditioning system is a finely tuned piece of machinery that is
designed to squeeze the most heat and cooling from your energy dollars.
Your
system operates for months on end and if one of the components of that
system is not working in harmony with the rest of the system, you are
losing efficiency and money.
Regular maintenance inspections often spot small problems before they
become large, and very expensive repairs.
Regular maintenance can also spot dangerous operating conditions that
could lead to production of carbon monoxide, which could be
a potentially deadly situation.
When looking for a contractor to perform a maintenance
inspection, make sure you know what you are getting.
A comprehensive maintenance and safety inspection takes time and should be
performed with care. If your service technician is in and out in just
minutes, you may not be getting a comprehensive inspection.
Energy Masters provides
you with a checklist of the items performed.
What is an AFUE and how do
furnace manufacturers compute it?
Also, are furnace manufacturers allowed to rate their own furnace’s
efficiency and heat output? If not, who does this?
An AFUE (annual fuel utilization efficiency) rating is assigned to
every furnace using a very complicated formula that takes into account
many factors, such as fuel use, electricity use, and the fans used in the
furnace.
Usually, the manufacturer assigns the AFUE rating and then the
AGA (American Gas Association) inspects the furnace and applies the
formula to ensure that it lives up to its assigned rating.
For more information about heating and
air conditioning terms, go to our GLOSSARY.
How
can I tell if the heat exchanger in my furnace has cracks?
You can’t. Most cracks in the heat exchanger occur in areas that are
hidden away. Even if the cracked areas of the heat exchanger were visible,
the cracks themselves are extremely difficult to detect by anyone without
a trained, experienced eye.
What
causes the cracks to form in a furnace’s heat exchanger?
In the normal course of furnace operation, the heat exchanger
experiences repeated heating and cooling, which causes a corresponding
expansion and contraction of the metal. Cracks will tend to form in areas
of the heat exchanger that are weak, such as the areas that have been
welded together at the factory.
More weak spots and holes will form as a
result of corrosion. Corrosion of the heat exchanger often signifies
problems with the exhaust venting. What happens is that water in the
exhaust, which contains carbonic acid, cools too quickly and condenses
out, draining back down the chimney and onto the heat exchanger where the
acid eats away at the metal.
Corrosion can also be caused by the ammonia
fumes from a nearby cat litter box (the litter box should be at least 15
feet away from the furnace).
What
does CFM stand for?
CFM stands for cubic feet per minute, which is a measure of air flow.
All air conditioning units have minimum CFM requirements which the furnace
or air handler must provide for the air conditioner to function properly.
CFM values are also important in the sizing of air cleaning and
ventilation equipment, as well as in calculations of the pressure inside
your home.
How
often should I change my filter?
If you have a
standard disposable filter, once per month is a good
rule of thumb. Most people need a reminder for
such a task, and we recommend that you replace your
filter every time you get your utility bill.
Also,
filters are made with different efficiencies and
thickness, so consult a technician, when you get a
chance, on how often you should clean or replace your
filter.
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TO THE TOP
Does
it damage my central system for me to close off sections
of my house by closing the doors to the rooms?
Yes
If a Central HVAC
system is designed properly, it will distribute air
evenly throughout the entire house. Shutting off
rooms only "chokes" the system, by not
allowing proper air distribution.
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Should
I set my thermostat back during the day in order to save
on my electric bill?
No
If you do not own a
"programmable" thermostat, then this is a bad
practice. The time and energy that it takes for
the system to "rebound" after you get home far
out weighs the perceived savings.
The difference
in owning a programmable thermostat is that it tells the
system when to come on in order for the system to
"rebound" at it's highest efficiency and over
a long period of time.
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Based
on a home's square footage, is there a "rule of
thumb" that can be used to determine the proper
size of HVAC equipment?
Yes
On most residential
applications, for every 550-600 sq. ft. of living space,
one should figure approximately one ton of
cooling. Systems are available in 1/2 tons
also. Example: A home has 2100 square feet @
600 square feet per ton, it would need a 3 1/2 ton
system.
Warning: This is only what it states to be, A RULE OF
THUMB. In order to properly calculate a home's
heating and cooling needs, a thorough evaluation of a
home's energy efficiency needs to be
completed. This can be done for you at no
cost by our Project Management Team. Call
352-3090.
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Should
I leave my fan in the "on" position or the "automatic" position?
It depends.
Depending on the humidity levels in your home, leaving
your fan in the "on" position can be a way to
constantly circulate air throughout the home and
increase comfort levels. It can, however, cause
more wear on your fan motor.
In fact, some people open
their windows in the spring and fall and turn their fan
in the "on" position to bring outdoor fresh
air throughout their home. If however you keep
your fan in the "automatic" position, it will
only come on when the air or heat cycle is on.
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How
important are brand names?
When looking for equipment you will be told that brand
A is better than brand B. In some cases one brand will offer benefits that
another brand does not.
Over the past couple of years one of the most common
questions we get asked concerns a certain brand of unit that is usually
sold at several hundred dollars less than other brands. Because this brand
is not that well known most consumers are not aware of it, even though the
company that makes it is now the second largest manufacturer in the United
States.
Generally speaking most equipment is well made and
differences are usually cosmetic. Where brands can really make a
difference is after the installation. If you have a problem with the
equipment, and for some reason it cannot be fixed at the contractor level,
you need support from the manufacturer.
Most major manufacturers will have technical people,
trouble shooters, that are available to the contractor and ultimately the
consumer to diagnose and fix those problems that are a little out of the
ordinary.
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What
is the most common reason for furnace
replacement
A cracked heat exchanger.
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Should I change fuel
types?
This is something you might want to consider if you
are installing a new furnace. Which fuel to choose? That's a question that
needs to be asked in your local area. In some cases natural gas is less
expensive than electricity, oil or propane, but not necessarily always.
Who do you ask? In a lot of cases the answer as to the
best fuel will vary depending on who you ask. Your gas utility, electrical utility, oil supply company, and your propane supplier will
all make convincing cases for their fuels.
You should look for an independent source for pricing
information. What you need to do is compare the local costs for
electricity, gas, oil, and propane. Some sources of information
include:
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Call Energy Master at 352-3090
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Your city/county government
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State department of energy
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Energy Star
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How
do I know what size of unit I need?
When you are buying a new air
conditioner you may get confused about size. In some areas air
conditioners were regularly oversized so contractors would not have to
deal with complaints from consumers - complaints that were usually due to
inadequate ductwork.
Contractors often
over-size a new air conditioner for two reasons:
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to allow for
future home or commercial expansion, which
increases the square feet being heated and cooled. This
can avoid a complete replacement of your heating/air
conditioning unit to meet those expansion needs.
-
to prevent the
unit from having to run at full capacity, which can
cause it to prematurely heat up, wear out and burn out,
just like always driving a car at full speed.
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TO THE TOP
How
does a furnace work?
A furnace works by pulling air inside a
heat exchanger, where it is warmed with a flame of natural gas,
propane or fuel oil, or with heated electric coils.
A blower sends
the warmed air through the house via metal ducts; it enters the room
through a register or grill in the floor or wall. Indoor air is
circulated continuously through the system, so a furnace filter is
used to contain dust, pollen and other airborne particles.
An older home might have a boiler, fueled
by natural gas, liquid propane or fuel oil.
A boiler works by
heating water and circulating is through pipes to radiators, where
it warms the surrounding air. Unlike a furnace, a boiler doesn't
circulate air throughout the house, which is why the air in a
boiler-heated home might seem "stuffier."
Electric
Heat Pumps
Another home heating option is an electric
heat pump. This unit works by moving existing heat from one area to
another in one of three ways:
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Air-to-air: An condenser absorbs heat
from the outdoor air (even the coldest air contains some
heat) and transfers it to an indoor heat exchanger inside
the home. Indoor air is warmed in the heat exchanger and
circulated throughout the home. During the summer, the
process is reversed to cool and dehumidify the home.
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Water-to-air: Instead of extracting
heat from outside air, this type of pump absorbs heat from
ground water or surface water, such as a farm pond.
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Ground-to-air: Also known as a
geothermal system, this type of heat pump uses underground
loops to absorb heat from the earth. Geothermal systems are
usually installed in newly-built homes, but can also be used
in existing home.
One advantage of a heat pump is that it
provides both heating and cooling capabilities in one unit. Electric
heat pumps are usually supplemented with a backup system, such as
radiant floor heaters or baseboard units (see below), in case of
extended periods of extreme temperatures. Heat pumps also use
filters to reduce airborne particles and keep the unit clean.
Electric
Resistance Heating
Electric resistance heating, usually found
in the form of baseboard heaters, was popular during the 1940s and
1950s, and is often used in multi-family dwelling like apartment
houses.
A baseboard unit has an electric heating element encased in
metal pipe. Air warmed by the heating unit rises to the top of the
room, and cooler air is drawn into the bottom of the heater. Each
unit has a separate thermostat to allow for different temperatures
in each room.
Radiant
Heating
Radiant heating is making a comeback in
many new homes. Instead of circulating heat by moving the air in the
room, a radiant system heats objects - including people.
The most
common form is radiant floor heating, which uses electric cables or
small tubes of hot water embedded in a concrete floor or under a
tiled floor. During the height of its popularity during the '40s and
50s, radiant heating was also installed in wall or ceiling panels.
Homeowners in the Midwest usually use
radiant heating as a supplement to a primary heating system. It's
most often installed under the floor in uncarpeted areas such as
kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms and garages.
For added luxury,
radiant heating cables can be embedded in a driveway - no more
shoveling!
How
can I save more money on my heating/air conditioning expenses?
Central
Air Conditioners
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Set your thermostat at 78°F or
higher. Each degree setting below 78°F will increase your
energy consumption by approximately 8%.
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Use bath and kitchen fans sparingly
when the air conditioner is operating.
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Inspect and clean both the indoor and
outdoor coils. The indoor coil in your air conditioner acts
as a magnet for dust because it is constantly wetted during
the cooling season. Dirt build-up on the indoor coil is the
single most common cause of poor efficiency. The outdoor
coil must also be checked periodically for dirt build-up and
cleaned if necessary.
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Check the refrigerant charge. The
circulating fluid in your air conditioner is a special
refrigerant gas that is put in when the system is installed.
If the system is overcharged or undercharged with
refrigerant, it will not work properly. You probably need a
service contractor to check the fluid and adjust it
appropriately.
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Reduce the cooling load by using
cost-effective conservation measures. For example,
effectively shade east and west windows. When possible,
delay heat-generating activities, such as dishwashing, until
the evening on hot days.
-
Over most of the cooling season, keep
the house closed tight during the day. Don't let in unwanted
heat and humidity. If practical, ventilate at night either
naturally or with fans.
-
Try not to use a dehumidifier at the
same time your air conditioner is operating. The
dehumidifier will increase the cooling load and force the
air conditioner to work harder.
Furnaces and boilers
A few simple tips can save you
dollars...
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Set your thermostat as low as is comfortable.
Keep the temperature fairly constant, as frequent changes will
utilize more energy by causing unnecessary cycling on and off.
Setting back the temperature at night, however, is recommended.
-
Clean or replace furnace filters once a month
or as needed. Oil-fired boilers should be professionally cleaned and
tuned once a year. Gas-fired equipment needs to be checked every
other year.
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Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters,
and radiators as needed; make sure they are not blocked by
furniture, carpeting, or drapes.
-
Keep draperies and shades on south-facing
windows open during the heating season to allow sunlight to enter
your home; close them at night to reduce the chill you may feel from
cold windows.
-
Close the door to an unoccupied room or area
that is isolated from the rest of the house and turn down the
thermostat or turn off the heat for that room or area.
-
Use kitchen, bath, and other ventilating fans
wisely. Turn these fans off as soon as they are no longer needed. In
about 1 hour, these fans can pull out a house-full of warmed or
cooled air.They can also pull dangerous furnace combustion gasses
into the house in some situations.
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Check your ducts for air leaks. First look for
sections that should be joined but have separated and then look for
obvious holes.
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Do not use duct tape to repair leaky ducts.
Standard duct tape has been shown unreliable in sealing duct leaks.
Various mastics or non-cloth-backed tapes are preferable.
Heat Pumps
For heat pumps with outdoor coils,
the location of the outdoor unit may affect its efficiency.
Outdoor units should be protected from high winds,
which can cause defrosting problems. You can strategically place a bush or a
fence upwind of the coils to block the unit from high winds.
Proper operation of your heat pump will also save
energy. Do not set back the heat pump's thermostat if it causes the backup
heating to come on. Backup heating systems are usually more expensive to
operate.
Continuous indoor fan operation can degrade heat pump performance
unless a high-efficiency, variable-speed fan motor is used. Operate the
system on the "auto" fan setting on the thermostat.
And like all heating and cooling systems, proper
maintenance is key to efficient operation. Clean or change filters once a
month or as needed, and maintain the system according to manufacturer's
instructions.
Dirty filters, coils, and fans reduce airflow through the
system. Reduced airflow decreases system performance and can damage your
system's compressor. Clean and lubricate the fan motor annually to ensure
the required airflow is provided for proper operation.
The fan speed should
be checked at the same time. Incorrect pulley settings, loose fan belts, or
incorrect motor speeds can all contribute to poor performance.
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Why
you should read your utility bills
No one wants to replace
their aging air conditioner unless they have to—somehow, picking out a new
air conditioner is just not as exciting as shopping for a new car.
But
sooner or later, for the sake of your sky-rocketing utility bills, it has
to be done. If you have not yet read the
information at the beginning of this guide, please do so before
proceeding.
Because the modern
heating/air conditioning unit is often a single, well-tuned
machine, many of the questions and answers in the heating
category also apply to air conditioning.
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What
are common things that go wrong with air conditioners?
If your air conditioner
isn't working, first check the circuit breaker or fuse that serves the unit.
Change the fuse or reset the circuit breaker
if necessary. If the compressor turns off and won't come back on
during a very hot day, the unit may have built up a high head
pressure and the high-pressure limit switch may have tripped. This
switch is usually located right inside the access panel on the
compressor unit. Simply push the button to return it to operation.
If the air conditioner doesn't cool or isn't cooling effectively,
check the thermostat to make sure it is set to "cool" rather than
"heat." Dirty evaporator or coils or a dirty filter in the air handler or furnace also can keep air
conditioners from cooling effectively.
Also, if you operate the air
conditioner when the air temperature is below 60°F, you might find
frost on the evaporator coils. If you do, it's time to turn off your
air conditioner.
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Is
there any maintenance you can do yourself?
Most of our customers
prefer to take advantage of our low-cost Fall and
Spring Maintenance Tune-ups. Our prices are lower than most others and
it helps you avoid getting in over your head and possibly damaging your
heating/air conditioning unit.
Keeping your air
conditioner clean is the key to efficient cooling. Check
the filter in the air handler once a month while it is
in use and replace or clean the filter as necessary.
Check to be sure that the condensate drain is clear (and
the condensate pump is working
properly if it has one) and that the condenser and
evaporator coils are clean.
Keeping the components clean helps prevent common
problems.
To clean the filter, remove it from the furnace or air handler (it's usually located inside or
very near the air inlet). Replace disposable filters or clean
reusable filters according to the manufacturer's directions.
Clean evaporator or condenser coils by removing access panels
and brushing or vacuuming the coils—or use a garden sprayer filled
with a mixture of water and detergent and spray from the inside out
(be careful not to spray the electrical components). Rinse with a
hose (again—avoid the electrical parts).
Be careful not to bend the
fins or damage the coils. While cleaning the evaporator, check that
the condenser drain is clean. If you accidentally bend fins, you can
buy a comb made for straightening them at an appliance parts store.
Cleaning the blower's fan blades will keep your air conditioner
operating quietly. Tighten the mounting bolts and lubricate any oil
cups according to the manufacturer's directions.
You should refer serious air conditioner problems to trained
technicians.
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When to Call for Help Call a
technician if you have a defective condenser or any problems
with the refrigeration system—this is a closed system that you
should not work on.
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Repair or replace: How to decide
when it is time for a new air conditioner
Repairing the damaged or worn-out parts of an air
conditioner is not necessarily more economical than replacing the whole
air conditioning unit with a new one.
For example, the compressor is the
heart of any central air conditioner or heat pump. If the compressor
fails, it must be replaced, usually at a cost that is equal to about 50%
of the cost of a brand new air conditioner.
In most cases, when the
compressor goes, it is more economical to replace the whole air
conditioner. (Besides, if your air conditioner is 10 years old or more, it
is only a matter of time before other parts begin to wear out as well.)
Air conditioning technology is changing to produce increasingly energy
efficient and environmentally friendly units, so if you're not sure
whether to replace your older unit, take a look at your utility
bills.
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A word about brand
names
When you shop for new cooling
equipment, you may be told that Brand A is better than Brand B. In some
cases, one brand will offer benefits that another brand does
not.
Over the past couple of years,
the most question we have most commonly been asked concerns a certain air
conditioning brand which is usually sold at several hundred dollars less
than other brands.
Most homeowners are not aware of this brand, even
though the company that manufactures it is now the second largest
manufacturer of air conditioners in the United States. The point is, even
if the brand of the air conditioner is not one you have ever heard of, it
is probably still a good unit.
Generally speaking, today most
air conditioners are well made and the differences between brands are
usually cosmetic.
Where the brand can make a difference is if, after the
installation, you have a problem with the equipment and for some reason it
cannot be fixed by a contractor (such as a minor defect). In this sort of
case, manufacturer support is helpful.
Most major manufacturers will have
technical people— trouble shooters—who are available to the contractor
(and ultimately, to the homeowner) to diagnose and fix those problems that
are a little out of the ordinary.
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I
am a Senior Citizen living on a fixed income. How can I afford
to buy a new heating/air conditioning unit even if I know I need
one?
We offer a special Senior Citizen
Discount. In addition, we work with TVA and other energy
suppliers to help you arrange the financing you need.
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TOP
Do
you accept credit cards? 
Yes, we accept Visa,
MasterCard, American Express and Discover.
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Do
you offer any other financing options?
In addition to the Senior Citizen
Discounts, if applicable, we provide zero-down financing with 6
months same as cash. If you have any questions about whether you
can afford repairs or a new unit, please call us at 352-3090 and
we'll be happy to work with you.
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What
if I'm not satisfied with your work?
We offer a full 100%
satisfaction guarantee - in writing. And we stand behind it. Our
best customers are satisfied customers. If you're not happy,
we're not happy. And we have lots of happy customers!
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How
do I know you're a legitimate company?
We are fully licensed (Business License
#15260 and Mechanical License #29), bonded and insured with all
current federal, state and local licenses. Our company is
managed by two certified professionals with more than 42 years'
combined experience in heating/air conditioning repair and
installation.
We are fully bonded by CPW Insurance
and insured up to commercial liability limits as required by
TVA, Nashville Gas and the Metro Nashville Department of Codes.
As a member of the TVA Certified Heat
Pumps Program since 1985, we undergo continuous scrutiny and
must meet exacting federal standards.
Nobody - but nobody - does heating and
air conditioning better!
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What
kind of warranty is there on parts?
We offer a 10-year warranty on parts
and labor for any new installation. We also offer a full 30-day
warranty on all repair work. If you have a problem, call us
immediately.
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What
happens if my furnace or air conditioner breaks down in the
middle of the night?
We're just a phone call away - 24 hours
a day, 7 days a week. Call 352-3090.
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Do
you provide free estimates?
Yes, we do - on all new installation,
change-outs and repairs over $500.
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I
don't even know what brand I currently have? Can you fix it?
If you don't know what brand unit you
have, call us and we'll be glad to come out and take a look and
get you up and running quickly.
We can repair any brand of heating/air
conditioning unit you may own. We work closely with all major
manufacturers to keep up-to-date with the latest technical and
repair information. In addition, we have a hotline directly to
the manufacturers if we need additional help.
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General
Information
One of the most important
investments in your home that you'll ever make is an improvement in your
heating, cooling, and indoor air quality systems. These systems are vital
to your family's comfort and health.
Although it is not glamorous, good
home comfort equipment that is correctly installed can increase the value
of your home, lower utility bills, prevent costly repair bills, and can
even improve some health problems.
Whether you are shopping for a
furnace, air conditioner, or air cleaning product, you need to do a little
homework first.
For example, if you need a new furnace, you should
consider the type of fuel you'll use, efficiency levels, accessory
equipment (such as a power humidifier), and your household's particular
needs.
This section will help you to get through the
process of deciding what you really need so that you can make purchase
decisions with confidence. Energy Master professionals will work with you
to make the most efficient, cost-effective decisions.
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How To Shop For Home
Comfort Equipment
The number one rule of
shopping for home comfort equipment is to shop for the contractor first
and then the equipment. Even the best piece of equipment can
be next to useless if not installed
correctly.
A new furnace or air conditioner
is not like a new washer or microwave. You can't just take it out of the
box and plug it in.
Your new equipment must work with any other home
comfort equipment already in place, as well as other systems in your home,
such as the electrical system, ductwork, radiators, ventilators, and
even the plumbing.
Any problems in one or more of these systems could
drastically affect the installation and operation of your equipment.
For
example, if you purchase a new air conditioner, your pre-existing furnace
must be able to handle the air conditioner's air flow requirements or
there will be trouble. A good HVAC contractor will know what factors to
consider and how to harmonize new equipment with your home's particular
systems.
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Where
can I find more energy information?
These sources were used for the information you've just
read. FOr more extensive information, you can go to the sources:
U.S. Department of
Energy
Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Network
Your comprehensive resource for DOE's energy efficiency and renewable energy
information with access to over 80,000 documents.
http://www.eren.doe.gov/buildings/
United States Environmental
Protection Agency
Single copies of the entire Indoor Air Quality booklet are available
from:
EPA's IAQ Information Clearinghouse
(800) 438-4318; (703) 356-4020
P.O. Box 37133
Washington, DC, 20013-7133.
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/insidest.html
EPA
Contributed to Duct Cleaning
http://www.epa.gov
also referenced are:
ACDoctor.com
Choosing a Heating and Cooling Contractor
http://www.epa.gov/appdstar/hvac/contractors.html
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do we sell, give, loan or rent your name, e-mail address or any
other private information you may give us. Any such information
you provide to us by e-mail or by phone is used strictly to
service your heating and air conditioning needs.
We use
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These "cookies" gather
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visit our site. We have no way of gathering
private information, nor do we wish to.
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